Sint Maarten: Day 12

Just before he left for the morning, my father made sure that I was up. This meant that I awoke about a half hour earlier than has been typical these days. The reason for the early rising was that I was to meet the university librarian and we were then going to go to Philipsburg to see the local public library. Not surprisingly, rising at this early hour allowed me plenty of preparation time, much more than I actually needed. So after completing all of the essential tasks, such as eating and cleaning, I was able to deal myself a few games of solitaire to kill the time.

Soon after I entered the university building and happened to see my father in the main office. I popped in to say ‘hello.’ As he was on his way out we were able talk while we walked the short distance to the library. During this time he was able to tell me about a book that he found that was really helping him make some progress on some of his remaining lectures.

Upon entering the library I was greeted by the librarian, Wendy, and her husband, Bobby-Ray. Bobby-Ray gave us a lift to Maho so that we would have to spend less time waiting for a bus. Soon after we were dropped off a bus picked us up and we were on our way. I should explain that when I say bus in this context I really mean ‘full-sized van driven by its owner that is operating kind of like a bus, but with routes that are much more flexible.’

The bus dropped us off just a short walk from the library, which we completed successfully. As we approached the library I was a little confused about what exactly it was we were approaching. The section of my building to my right was quite clearly part of the library, but the part of the building on my left appeared to be some kind of garage for large trucks, or something that would require huge garage doors.

As I approached the building things became much clearer. Instead of walls, much of the library was bounded by garage doors, which would be raised and lowered as desired. During our visit I saw that they opened many of these doors to allow a breeze and general air circulation rather than using a formal air conditioning system. One consequential result is that a huge amount of dust is let in, permeating most of the books.

We started our examination of the library in the room that housed the reference collection. It immediately became apparent that not only did they shelve the Dutch and English book together, but that they some pretty specialized reference sources, which was surprising for a public library in such an out of the way place. Upon closer examination I am now of the impression that some of the more specialized sources must have been acquired through donations or other low cost sources. In many cases only very spotty runs of annual publications were held, frequently with the most recent year or two not available. One might generally describe the reference collection as broad, but well aged.

It should be noted that there was a fairly large Caribbean-specific reference collection. While many of the materials were on the old side, I wouldn’t be surprised if many of them had not been since their original publication. This could definitely be useful if you were in Sint Maarten and conducting research on the surrounding islands and peoples.

In the reference room there were also several public access internet terminals. When talking to the library staff person we learned that one or two were out of order. We also learned that the person with whom we had been hoping to meet was also not present and wouldn’t be until the afternoon, and it definitely wasn’t yet the afternoon.

We proceeded to examine (in a friendly, inquisitive way) the rest of the library. The rest of the collections were quite similar to the reference collection, broad, but a little out of date. One might have also questioned the relevance of some of the materials to members of the general public. I suspect that many of these more questionable materials (only from a cost sense) were likely donated. Unfortunately, many of these donated items are now well out of date and could likely be weeded without much harm to the collection. Wendy’s thought was that such an action would then leave the shelves looking rather bare.

On the subject of bare shelves, this library had more free shelf space than just about any other library I have seen. Most shelves had some space at the end so that nothing was too tight. If I recall correctly, most of the bottom shelves may have been empty (but this may have been to protect the books because of regular flooding during hurricane season).

After our examination of the library we went for lunch. On our way to the restaurant Wendy showed me a few places that one might be gifts. One store, also the largest bookstore, sold things from the Netherlands (as we are in the Netherlands Antilles) as well as the typical tourist junk. This store also sold Heinekens from a cooler for $1. We were also able visit a tablecloth/linen store. While they had quite a large selection, it is likely that none of it was made in Sint Maarten, or anywhere near the island.

As we continued on our way to the restaurant we spotted a cruise ship at the terminal. Wendy explained why the Dutch side of the island is such a popular cruise ship destination. It seems that when originally trying to attract cruise ships to the island the government offered free waste disposal services to any cruise ship that called at Sint Maarten. The result is that not many, if not most, Caribbean cruise ships stop here to take advantage of the deal (rather than because it is such a great place for tourists).

We then reached the restaurant, which was relatively empty because it was still on the early side for lunch. Upon arriving we made our way to the bar to order. As the employee (likely the owner) was taking the order of the group in front of us I noticed that they sold a single Canadian beer. I then commented to Wendy that it was one of the worst Canadian beers, but that it seems to be the only one that I see overseas. As I was finishing up my explanation I heard the preceding group ask the woman where she was from. Not surprisingly, she answered ‘Ontario,’ thus explaining the presence of a Canadian beer. Of course I then felt like a bit of an ass as I they had probably brought this beer in to remind themselves of home (or capture the ex-pat crowd), but I still stand by my belief that it isn’t the greatest of beers, and not even close to the best beer made by that brewery.

Soon after embarrassing myself it was our turn to order. We both ordered burgers and Caribs. I didn’t bring attention to the fact that I too was from Canada, or more specifically, Newfoundland. I have found in the past that such conversations become very awkward very quickly, particularly when, after about 12 seconds, it becomes clear that you have nothing in common beyond the same citizenship (and a propensity to say ‘thank you’ and ‘sorry’ more than is necessary).

Due to our early arrival our food took a while to arrive (this likelihood had been explained to us before we ordered). We were able to sit and chat about a variety of matters while waiting for our food. The conversation was quite pleasant.

Eventually our food arrived and we started to eat. I ended up eventually ordering some fries to go with my burger (as well as another Carib). Each time I had any interactions with the staff they all seemed stereotypically Canadian, much politer than one would expect at what was basically a beach bar.

After lunch we made our way back to Back Street, where we caught a bus back to the university. The driver was kind enough to go a little out of his way and drop us off at the university’s driveway rather than at the normal stop about a block further away.

Once I returned to the apartment I found my father eating lunch. We then discussed what we might do in the afternoon. Eventually snorkeling was settled upon as the desired activity. We decided to try an area with three beaches and move from one to the next until we found a place with clear water.

Unfortunately, when we reached the first beach, Long Bay, we realized that we had forgotten to buy sunscreen along the way. Once we reached the water we realized that with the wind and waves as they were the water was likely a little riled up and probably not a good location for snorkeling. We then moved onto Plum Bay, which looked a fair bit better. Fortunately, just as we were leaving, we ran into a couple that had just been snorkeling and had found the water to be a bit murkier than they would have liked. We again set on our way, this time to Red Bay (or Baie Rouge).

As we entered the parking area at Baie Rouge a teenage boy directed us to a parking spot. As we exited the same boy asked us if we were interested in chairs and umbrellas. He also tried to encourage us to use a staircase different than the one we had intended to use. While following us to the beach he again asked us if we wanted chairs. Only after a third or fourth rejection did he seem to appreciate that we would not be renting chairs from Chez Raymond that afternoon.

The water at Baie Rouge was also a fair bit more riled than we were hoping. The waves were also much larger than any that we have seen elsewhere on the island. Since the last time we were there much of the beach had been sucked into the sea, leaving a sharp drop from the much smaller area with chairs to the area that was intermittently covered with surf and water. While this place look like a great deal of fun, it wasn’t quite appropriate for snorkeling so we moved on.

Our next stop, instead of a beach, was actually at a store. We hoped to buy some sunscreen. The prices at this particular store were on the outrageous side so we decided to head back to Maho and make our purchase at a store we knew wasn’t likely to rip us off.

After making our purchase we decided to give Mullet Beach a try, particularly as we were now on the Dutch side of the island. Not surprisingly this beach wasn’t all that different than the others, but in this case we actually had to go in the water to find out. After just a few minutes of unsuccessful snorkeling we decided to head in and re-group.

While on the shore we decided that since we were already wet we might as well try Maho beach, which is the beach located at the end of the runway. While this place doesn’t seem as though it would be that good, a student of my father’s said that she once saw both a sea turtle and a barracuda while snorkeling there.

As soon as we arrived it was clear that as at all of the other beaches, the waves were larger than usual. As the snorkeling is a fair ways out at this beach, we decided that I would be sent out to check thing and that my father would wait for my return. Once I was in the water I had the sense that things would be the same. Nonetheless, I did swim all the way out just in case there was some magical clear spot near the rocks. Not surprisingly as I approached the final location it was clear that the water was just as cloudy as it had been elsewhere.

I then started to swim back. As I was swimming back I intentionally decided not to wave or attempt to signal in anyway as I was pretty sure it could cause confusion. I was most worried about falsely signaling that I was in distress when I actually meant to signal to stay on shore. Somehow, even with my decision not to signal, my father pick up something that he thought was a signal indicating that he should come out. The frustrating thing was that I could see this happening but still was not in a position to effectively signal, especially once he had exchanged his glasses for the mask.

I was able to meet him relatively near the shore. We again returned to the shore and packed up our equipment. Instead of heading home, we decided to head to the Sunset Beach Bar on the other side of the beach.

Just as we were approaching the end of the beach we noticed that there was a photo being taken of a guy surrounded by about five well-endowed topless women. Many of the women then went back to the water to play in the surf while the forty-year-old guy in stripped Speedo-styled swimming attire stayed on the beach. It was a scene that didn’t, and still doesn’t, make that much sense to me.

Once we reached the bar and took a seat we again encountered the quality service for with the establishment is known. Eventually my father just went to the bar and ordered. After a relatively lengthy stay at the bar he returned with his iced tea and a rum punch for me.

I should explain that while I don’t normally drink rum, or any of the other hard liquors, I did feel it was appropriate to try one such drink while here, as rum is clearly the choice of the local population. I should say that I was pleasantly surprised. The rum punch was much more than just drinkable; I might even go so far as to say satisfying and tasty. The aspects of rum’s flavour that I normally dislike seem to have been masked by a range of juices and other flavours.

As we were sitting at the bar working on our drinks a family entered the establishment. At first only three members, the father, mother, and daughter, came in, they were soon joined by the youngest member of the family, a somewhat out of sorts son (of about twelve years of age). While the father and daughter were at the bar ordering drinks the sullen son was left sitting at the table with his prudish mother. As the kid was busy staring at his picnic table three of the topless women from the beach came in to order drinks. As this bar has a policy of free drinks for topless women they were drinking for free. While ordering they became engaged in a friendly conversation with a couple seated at the bar, thus significantly extending the duration of their stay in the bar area.

If this kid hadn’t been so intently staring at the table he would have seen these three topless women, which would have been a pretty cool sight for a twelve year-old. He would have had a great story when he returned to his friends in a few days time. His only other problem, which may actually have been part of the reason for great focus on the table, was that he was seated with his mother, who likely wouldn’t have been all that impressed with her young son checking out three topless women at the bar.

Soon after we finished our respective drinks we again returned the grocery store to pick up meat for dinner. I purchased two chicken breasts as they didn’t have reasonably priced steak and their pork chops were being sold only in packages of three.

Soon after we returned home my father took to the couch, where he soon drifted off. While he was in and out of sleep I worked on dinner. Again we had two vegetables, a starch component, and broiled meat. Again we had a colourful meal. This, like the previous meals we have cooked in the apartment was entirely consumed, allowing us to remain members of the Clean Plate Club, a group we have been members of since arriving.

Shortly after dinner, but after an attempted Skype call to my mother and sister, my father went back to work for a few hours. I stayed in the apartment to read. As the hour approached 8:30 I decided to hit the rack. As far as I know, I was asleep well before 9:00 and possibly even before 8:30.